Viajes solidarios Abay Etiopía

Te cuento Etiopía – Mamush quiere saber

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Te cuento Etiopía – Mamush quiere saber

Mamush acababa de cumplir once años la primera vez que viajó a Addis Abeba. Hasta entonces nunca había salido de su pequeña aldea Hadiya, aunque sabía por los abuelos que Etiopía era un país inmenso del que debía estaba orgulloso de pertenecer. Salieron antes de que amaneciera y como no tenían coche, ni bicicleta, ni siquiera burro, alcanzaron la carretera a pie. Una vez allí, esperaron a que alguien pudiera recogerlos y conducirlos a la capital.

Estuvieron tres días fuera de casa y Mamush, de contento que estaba, no pudo dormir ni un solo día bajo el cielo nocturno de Addis Abeba. Caminaron hasta agotarse por las calles del Merkato, compraron aceite de eucalipto en una pequeña tiendecita a los pies del monte Entonto y Mamush ganó varias veces a sus primos en las carreras que organizaron alrededor de la plaza Meskel. Durante esos días, Mamush se convirtió en el niño más feliz de todo el planeta.

Sin embargo, la última tarde que pasaron con los familiares de Addis Abeba, pasó algo que puso al niño pensativo y triste. Su tío, que había prosperado mucho desde que montara un humilde comercio de plata, les llevó a una cafetería en Piazza. Ellos nunca habían estado en un lugar como aquel, y cuando entraron, los ojos de Mamush crecieron y crecieron al descubrir, al fondo del local, una televisión colgada de la pared y casi tan grande como la puerta de entrada. El niño reía sin parar, emocionado y nervioso al mismo tiempo. Pensaba que cuando contara aquello a sus hermanos y amigos, no podrían creerle. Aunque era imposible entender ni una sola palabra, Mamush no podía dejar de apartar su mirada curiosa del aparato, sus ojos enormes, llenos de ilusión, abarcaban toda la pantalla. Pero de repente, su mirada llena de luz empezó a apagarse y sus párpados se inclinaron entristecidos, como queriendo escapar de su cara… Imágenes de su país, en un documental europeo, mostraban un lugar desértico, pobre, un lugar sin vida sembrado de sufrimiento. Un lugar oscuro donde los niños caminaban por las calles descalzos.

Regresó a su casa sin fuerzas y decepcionado. Cuando le preguntaron por su viaje se encogió de hombros y sentía que en su aldea, desde su regreso, todo transcurría más lentamente, como mezclado con un aire denso que impedía que la vida fluyese como antes.

Una tarde, mientras su madre preparaba injera para la cena, lo vio sentado en la entrada, con la mirada perdida y los brazos caídos, como derrotado. Preocupada se limpió las manos y en silencio se sentó al lado su hijo. Los dos permanecieron así, inmóviles, hasta que se llegó la noche. Fue entonces, cuando empezaron a encenderse las luces en el interior de las casas y a escucharse la voz de los niños después del juego, cuando Mamush le contó con horror a su madre su última tarde en la ciudad. “Mamá – le dijo- he descubierto que Etiopía no es un buen lugar para nosotros”.

La madre, que comprendía y compartía el dolor en el corazón de su hijo, se acercó a la casa y regreso junto al niño. “Quiero – le dijo- que cojas este saco vacío y que guardes en su interior una hoja de acacia por cada cosa buena que tenga nuestro país. Si antes de una semana consigues llenarlo, significará que Etiopía es un buen lugar para nosotros”.

Cuando Mamush miraba el saco de tef pensaba que era demasiado grande para llenarlo de hojas, que tardaría toda una vida en encontrar tantas razones para quedarse en Etiopía. Aún así, no quiso desobedecer a su madre y a la mañana siguiente se acercó a la acacia de la entrada y comenzó a recoger sus hojas caídas. Metió una primera hoja en el saco por la dignidad del rostro etíope, una segunda por el Arca de la Alianza, la tercera por el café y la cuarta por el Nilo Azul. Las iglesias escavadas en la roca Lalibela merecieron once hojas y otras cinco los obeliscos de Axum. Durante días la ceremonia del café, las montañas del Norte, las tribus del sur, el Nilo Azul, el Omo y el Awasa, los Parques Nacionales de Simien, Gamella y los Montes de Bale, el babuino Gelada, el Lago Tana y sus monasterios, los castillos de Gondar, la injera, el Doro Wat, el Tibs y el Berbere, el Timkat y la Batalla de Adwa, el olor a eucalipto del Entoto en temporada de lluvias, la sonrisa de los niños, la serenidad de las mujeres y la vida de las calles fueron completando la tarea de Mamush.

El niño trabajaba mañana y tarde llenando la bolsa, y cuanto más pesada era con más alegría la llevaba el niño de un lugar a otro, emocionado y muy atento para no olvidar nada fuera.

Cuando al tercer día vio que el saco estaba completamente lleno no lo pudo creer, saltó, rió y salió corriendo hacia su madre, que lo espera paciente mientras lavaba la ropa…. Dio vueltas a su alrededor gritando “ ¡lo conseguí, lo conseguí, Etiopía es un buen lugar para nosotros!”” Abrazó y besó a su madre agitadamente, y después regresó a por su saco de tef, repleto de hojas, y puñado a puñado las fue lanzando al aire mientras animaba a los otros niños a compartir con él la alegría de haber nacido en Etiopía. Las hojas de acacia volaron como pompas de jabón y alcanzaron todos los rincones de la aldea. Hombres, mujeres y niños, conmovidos por la emoción de Mamush, salieron a participar de la fiesta y juntos sumergieron sus manos en el saco de tef y arrojaron con fuerza sus puños al cielo para que las grandezas de Etiopía pudieran llegar lejos. La aldea permaneció durante horas cubierta de una cortina de hojas verdes que caían del cielo a borbotones, como el agua en temporada de lluvias.

Cuando el saco estuvo vacío los ojos de Mamush volvieron a estar repletos de vida. Sólo una pequeña hoja, aún tierna, quedó atrapada en la bolsa. Una hoja que el niño guardó en el bolsillo de su pantalón para no olvidar nunca lo que ese día había ocurrido en su pequeña aldea Hadiya al sur de Etiopía

Texto de Cristina Minguez Aguilar  – Ilustración de Anunci Marazuela

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